tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87073774456897658452024-02-20T02:48:14.523-08:00Cactus LoverSite dedicated to the cactus and succulent. You can find care tips, fact and information about cactus & succulent and more other gardening & plantingSoccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.comBlogger106125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-9203662290230644262012-05-31T00:55:00.001-07:002012-05-31T00:55:27.065-07:00Hydrangeas Planting & Care<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/thaicreate/my%20website/Hydrangea_macrophylla_-_Bigleaf_hydrangea2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/thaicreate/my%20website/hydrangea_macrophylla_altona_planfor01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/thaicreate/my%20website/hydrangea_macrophylla_altona_planfor01.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/thaicreate/my%20website/Hydrangea_macrophylla_-_Bigleaf_hydrangea2.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/thaicreate/my%20website/Hydrangea_macrophylla_-_Bigleaf_hydrangea2.jpg" width="240" /></a>Hydrangeas are the fastcinating flower because their flower color is so wonderful. That can make your garden more gorogeous. Besides you can change if you know how to do it.<br /><br />Hydrangeas have 5 common varieites:<br /><br /><b>1. Hydrangea arborescens 'Grandiflora' -- Hills-of-Snow Hydrangea</b><br /><br />Prune hills-of-snow hydrangea to the ground line each winter or early spring because it flowers abundantly on new growth, and is frequently killed back during winter. If a larger shrub is desired (3+ feet) and/or it is not killed back over the winter, prune less severely. <br /><br /><b>2. Hydrangea paniculata 'Grandiflora' -- Pee Gee Hydrangea</b><br /><br /><br />This is the most commonly planted hydrangea. They gradually turn to pink and remain on the plant in a semi-dried condition long after the leaves have fallen. <br /><br />Pruning involves the removal of dead flowers, if unattractive, and an annual corrective pruning of vigorous shoots. Thin and/or cut back the previous season's growth in late winter or early spring, since flower clusters occur on newly developing branches. <br /><br /><br /><b>3. Hydrangea macrophylla -- Hortensia or Florist Hydrangea </b><br /><br />This is a commonly grown hydrangea with large globe-shaped flowers. Once moved outdoors, however, color is dependent upon the pH of the soil in which it is grown: blue if acid; pink if alkaline. There are also several white-flowered cultivars. Prune as soon as the flowers have faded and strong shoots are developing from the lower parts of the stems and crown. <br /><br />Remove at the base some of the weaker shoots that are both old and new. Always try to keep several stems of old productive wood, with a sufficient number of stout new stems that will flower the following season. Early spring pruning (March), although acceptable, will result in the sacrificing of bloom for that growing season.<br /><br />Winter protection of the plant should be initiated in December to preserve buds for next year's flowering. Tie the shoots together and wrap with burlap. If left unprotected, delay any spring pruning until the buds swell in order to determine which wood needs to be removed, and then cut back to below the point of injury. <br /><br /><b>4. Hydrangea quercifolia --Oakleaf Hydrangea </b><br /><br />This plant is grown primarily for its handsome oak leaf-shaped foliage, excellent fall color, attractive flowers and interesting winter bark. It is ideally suited to a lightly shaded or protected location. Prune back in early spring to remove dead wood. Cut back to below the point of injury and remove old wood to the base.<br /><br /><br /><br /><b>5. Hydrangea anomala petiolaris -- Climbing Hydrangea </b><br /><br />Climbing hydrangea is a desirable mid-summer flowering woody vine that attaches itself by aerial roots to brick, masonry or wood. It requires little or no pruning. If certain shoots have grown out of bounds, reduce their length in summer. <br /><br /><b><span style="color: blue;">Hydrangea color</span></b><br /><br />The other big question with feeding hydrangeas is flower color. Acid soils give us blues and baser soils cause pink flowers. The key is aluminum ions in the soil, so aluminum sulfate is a good quick fix, but prolonged use year after year may cause a fatal build up in the soil. Iron sulfate is a safer fix, or try alternating. If pink is what you want, top dress with dolomite or drench with a quick lime solution. <br /><br /><b>Lighting </b><br /><br />Hydrangeas needs the full sun. The ideal place for Hydranges to bloom well is the place which the full sun in morning and the sun shade in afternoon.<br /><br /><b>Fertilizing</b><br /><br />Fertilize hydrangeas in early spring with a complete granular fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per one hundred square feet. Apply fertilizer as broadcast top dressing. During long periods of drought, water thoroughly each week.<br /><br /><b>Soil</b><br /><br />Plant in well-drained soil! If soil is heavy, add roughage such as pine bark mulch (Make sure it's ground BARK not ground WOOD .<br /><br /><b>Watering </b><br /><br />Water regularly; do not overwater. Hydrangeas requires consistently moist soil; do not let dry out between waterings </div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-58292947614894835342012-05-23T01:52:00.003-07:002012-05-23T01:52:59.382-07:00Making organic compost from food scraps<div align="justify" class="style43">
If you think food scraps in your kitchen such as coffee grounds,
tea bags, stale bread, grains are useless, you're wrong. You can make organic compost by yourself from those scraps easily.
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Composting from food scraps not only help the earth to trap you can also provide additional nutrients to the soil without paying any penny. <br />
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<strong class="style38">Here is the list of food waste can compost</strong><br class="style38" />
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<ul>
<li class="style43">All your vegetable and fruit wastes, (including rinds and cores) even if they are moldy and ugly</li>
<li class="style43">Old bread, donuts, cookies, crackers, pizza crust, noodles: anything made out of flour!</li>
<li class="style43">Grains (cooked or uncooked): rice, barley, you name it</li>
<li class="style43">Coffee grounds, tea bags, filters</li>
<li class="style43">Fruit or vegetable pulp from juicing</li>
<li class="style43">Old spices</li>
<li class="style43">Outdated boxed foods from the pantry</li>
<li class="style43">Egg shells (crush well)</li>
<img align="right" alt="compost from food scraps" height="164" hspace="8" src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/thaicreate/my website/164664_y7x2g_rjldcx5tpgj43wot1xe_SGX4m_1822.jpg" vspace="8" width="250" />
<li class="style43">Corn cobs and husks (cobs breakdown very slowly)</li>
</ul>
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<strong class="style38">Food waste <span class="style31">cannot </span>compost</strong><br />
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<ul>
<li class="style43">Meat or meat waste, such as bones, fat, gristle, skin, etc.</li>
<li class="style43">Fish or fish waste</li>
<li class="style43">Dairy products, such as cheese, butter, cottage cheese, yogurt, cream cheese, sour cream, etc.</li>
<li class="style43">Grease and oils of any kind</li>
<li class="style43"> Kitty litter or animal feces </li>
<li class="style43">Those will make the compost smell badly and attract maggot or rodent.</li>
</ul>
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<strong class="style38">How to do compost from food scraps</strong><br />
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<strong>1. </strong>Select a dry, shady spot near a water source for your compost pile or bin.</div>
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<strong>2. </strong>Before you add scraps, make sure larger pieces are chopped or shredded. The smaller pieces are, the sooner the compost will be ready.</div>
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<strong>3. </strong>Cover your composting area with a 6-inch layer of brown materials (dead leaves, branches, chip & twigs, shredded newspaper, saw dust)</div>
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<strong>4. </strong>Add a 3-inch layer of green materials (grass clippings, food scraps)and a little soil or finished compost.</div>
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<img align="middle" height="192" hspace="8" src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/thaicreate/my%20website/original_ferment7.jpg" vspace="8" width="337" /></div>
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<strong>5. </strong>Lightly mix the two layers above.</div>
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<strong>6. </strong>Top with a 3-inch layer of brown materials, adding water until moist.</div>
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<strong>7. </strong>Turn your compost pile every week or two with a pitchfork to distribute air and moisture. Move the dry materials from the edges into the middle of the pile. Continue this practice until the pile does not reheat much after turning.</div>
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<strong>8. </strong>Your compost will be ready in 30 dayss, but let the pile sit for two weeks before using. </div>
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Source: <a href="http://www.sfgate.com/">http://www.sfgate.com/</a>, <a href="http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.com/">http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.com, </a></div>
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</div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-27502039779124325552012-05-16T20:36:00.001-07:002012-05-16T20:36:09.152-07:00Cochineal vs Cactus<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3643/3391793329_eb7926ab79.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3643/3391793329_eb7926ab79.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When you look at the white spot covering on Opuntia, do you think it's from fungus or insect? The answer is from an insect infestation. The white sticky mounds are the housing for cochineal bugs (also known as mealy bugs. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> The white sticky mounds are the housing for cochineal bugs (also known as mealy
bugs) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;">All of the host plants of cochineal colonies were</span> Opuntia species. C</span>ochineal<span class="apple-style-span"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">feed on plant moisture and nutrients.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Like the aphid (a related insect) the female drives her
tubular proboscis through the cactus skin, where she will remain affixed for
the rest of her life, sucking out the juice. Simultaneously, she produces
a white, waxy, fungus-looking coating that will help protect her from predatory
insects and birds and shade her from the desert sun. However, she sometimes fall prey to a rare carnivorous caterpillar and more commonly, to our
good friend, the ladybird beetle. Over time, a heavy cochineal
infestation can kill its resident plant. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://www.turkeyredjournal.com/archives/V13_I1/images/smalley3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.turkeyredjournal.com/archives/V13_I1/images/smalley3.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">However, Cochineal has industrially important insects because <span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">Cochineal can produce </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">scarlet</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">, orange, and other red tints. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">The colors are produced from carminic acid which is today primarily used as a natural </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">dyeing for f</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">ood, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">pharmaceutical and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">cosmetics industries</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"> . And seriously, there are cochineal farms for export in some countries such as Peru, Australia, Mexico, Chile.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you don't want cochineal on your healthy plants, it’s
suggested to treat <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the damaged areas by
scrubbing them with insecticidal soap or unscented dish soap. In small areas
you can scrub with a tooth brush but for larger areas it is best to use a long
handled brush. Or you can just spray all of the surfaces of the prickly pear pads
thoroughly using a power nozzle attached to your hose and then thoroughly spray
with a solution of spectraside and insecticidal soap. Do not rinse after
applying the spectraside and insecticidal soap.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">source: http://www.desertusa.com, http://www.thecactusdoctor.com, http://en.wikipedia.org</span>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-77742336814717769712012-01-02T20:52:00.001-08:002012-01-02T21:24:40.028-08:00Aphid at Cactus root<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On New Year holidays, I had free time to notice that my poor astro. baby cactus became flatter and smaller. When I removed them out of the pot, I got the answer: aphid stayed at the root. This awful insect suck the juices of root for food. I think it was because I rarely sprayed the chemical insecticide. I usually use the organic one which may not be strong enough.</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMXcPOhibFKz-SmFeF58ty7Q8FS1shFd4Gf3SCjFaQDpYGgavY756iLQ0-BoL19wxfskqYOoewWlBo_BnjNhheEwSNGisDyMGyj7956kspnQJtECLI_fKEm-3qnuYLyyQXVYPAH52_aE/s1600/P1040894.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMXcPOhibFKz-SmFeF58ty7Q8FS1shFd4Gf3SCjFaQDpYGgavY756iLQ0-BoL19wxfskqYOoewWlBo_BnjNhheEwSNGisDyMGyj7956kspnQJtECLI_fKEm-3qnuYLyyQXVYPAH52_aE/s400/P1040894.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">You can see the small white thing in the soil. This is evil aphid.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After realizing the problem, I also washed and cleansed the cactus root in water. I tried to remove all soil and dust from the root softly. If do severely, the root might be damaged and the recovery will take longer time.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is the cactus after I scrubbed all soil. It becomes bare root now.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgibJdRZriVBDfgis27qPWbHLRKkzJH50bY07x8faoMOjBh4LeQYBK5R-CVwBBGT7A5EAzqUjINMC5-xs7WMubhb4nyXSuecIMdQBS-1-FIoMYtbuVBPSxmxbAzlC-PqVukXO63ipgd34/s1600/P1040896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgibJdRZriVBDfgis27qPWbHLRKkzJH50bY07x8faoMOjBh4LeQYBK5R-CVwBBGT7A5EAzqUjINMC5-xs7WMubhb4nyXSuecIMdQBS-1-FIoMYtbuVBPSxmxbAzlC-PqVukXO63ipgd34/s400/P1040896.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwKMzXXBeqlUrBSENWlQB8P39Nl_4amX0YKdJ-N36FEu7OtI8TiEIkkHrOefrnASmPuLvrZfbBOwodKEJ_NrG2sL5SI0awvdyOPxvqN9MILPgO6IV1egPG3smB0IMdUK2w1-YLQwVl6Kg/s1600/P1040897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwKMzXXBeqlUrBSENWlQB8P39Nl_4amX0YKdJ-N36FEu7OtI8TiEIkkHrOefrnASmPuLvrZfbBOwodKEJ_NrG2sL5SI0awvdyOPxvqN9MILPgO6IV1egPG3smB0IMdUK2w1-YLQwVl6Kg/s400/P1040897.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'll leave them like this for several days and plant in the pot later. Hope you guys will have time to care your cactus, not ignoring them like I did. </span></div>
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<br /></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-8723942724495610642011-12-25T23:58:00.000-08:002011-12-26T00:03:26.465-08:00ฺPlant bare root cactus<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://katieworld1.com/cactuskate/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/Fockea_edulis_1_3-6-09_3_bare-root.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://katieworld1.com/cactuskate/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/Fockea_edulis_1_3-6-09_3_bare-root.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black;">If
you buy the plant from online shops or nurseries, the sellers always pack and
ship it with bare root or unpotted. Some people don’t
like this way because the plant will be dormant and also need time to recover in the
first 2-3 months. However, shipping with
bare root has some advantages: less damage to the plant during transportation,
especially big one. The shipment is
cleaner: no soil, small rock or bug. You
will be charged with lower freight due to less weight from soil and pot. Meanwhile, with new root, the cactus will
grow faster and healthier after 6 months that you got it. </span></span></div>
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</span><br />
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Here is the instruction what to do when you get
bare root cactus & succulent.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"></span>Upon receiving your plants, open boxes as soon
as possible. If any damaged roots are observed, trim with clean scissors before
planting. Keep the new plants somewhat dry until new roots start forming. This
can take a few days if hot or weeks or longer if dormant. During the shipping
process, some plants may become de-acclimated from their normal full sun
environment, and could burn if they are exposed too soon to extremely hot sun. </span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"></span>Before planting, allow it to dry 10 to 25 days
after you receive your cutting. (Thick cuts and cool weather require a longer
drying period). To dry the wounds, leave the cutting in a shady, warm exposure,
not direct sun. </span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"></span>Plant it in DRY cactus potting soil and pot
about an inch wider than the diameter of your cactus.</span></li>
</ul>
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<a href="http://weblogs.dailypress.com/features/gardening/diggin-in/bare-root-rose-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://weblogs.dailypress.com/features/gardening/diggin-in/bare-root-rose-1.jpg" width="228" /></a></div>
<ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Do not water for another 10 - 25 days. After the
cutting develops a root system it is safe to start a light regular watering
cycle. Always let the soil dry out completely between applications of water. It
is more likely that a cutting will be killed by over watering than under
watering. </span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black;">The
bare root shipping is applied not only to cactus & succulent but also to other
plants such as rose, orchid, nepenthe and etc.
But the ways how to deal with each one after receiving it are
different. So study the plant’s habit
and ask for advice from your seller. </span></span><br />
<br />
</div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Source: <a href="http://www.cactusstore.com/">www.cactusstore.com</a>, </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"></span></span></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-63284937275208620712011-11-02T22:03:00.000-07:002011-11-02T22:03:35.440-07:00Watering while you're away or on vacation (2)<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here are another easy DIY tips which explain by simple picture. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://img.wonderhowto.com/images/gfx/gallery/l634547924993423498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img.wonderhowto.com/images/gfx/gallery/l634547924993423498.jpg" width="430" /></span></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">source: <a href="http://thesecretyumiverse.wonderhowto.com/blog/6-diy-tips-for-watering-your-houseplants-while-away-vacation-0130874/">http://thesecretyumiverse.wonderhowto.com/blog/6-diy-tips-for-watering-your-houseplants-while-away-vacation-0130874/</a></span>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-56347644995548573162011-11-02T22:00:00.000-07:002011-11-02T22:13:44.868-07:00Watering while away or on vacation (1)<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.grownheadz.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/on-vacation-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.grownheadz.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/on-vacation-01.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Watering plants is the daily important task for gardeners but who
will do it while you’re away or on vacation??? Here are some helpful ways to
solve the problem: <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;">-</span></span><span style="color: black;"><u> Ideal way is to have a friend, neighbor, or
family member come to the house and water.</u> There are some drawbacks to this
idea and you must weigh them carefully before entrusting this chore to someone
else.</span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- <u>E</u><span style="color: black;"><u>nclose plants in large transparent or clear plastic bags</u>. Place
the plant inside the bag and then close the top tightly with lightweight twine
or ribbon. If the top flops and bends the plant, put a tall stick in the pot to
hold up the bag. This way will work for 2 weeks vacation. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 115%;"> </span></span><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;">It's important not to water just before enclosing the
plant. If you do, so much water will condense inside the bag that the plant
surface becomes too moist. </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- <span style="color: black;"><u>The simplest method for outdoor pots
and hanging baskets is to move all of them into your dark, cool garage, bathroom or place</u>. (Do this BEFORE watering them; they’ll be lighter and easier to
move.) The temperature and will remain constant and evaporation will slow.
Always use drip pans under the containers to retain water. </span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">For ten days, they
should be fine.</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">- </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 18px;">fill a washtub with gravel, fill the tub with water just to the level of the gravel, and set a plant on top of the gravel. The humidity from the water will prevent it from drying out. Another method is to set bricks in a bathtub, fill the tub with water to the level of the bricks, and set plants on the bricks.</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://images.teamsugar.com/files/upl0/6/61259/14_2008/3-28-lookeuc2.preview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://images.teamsugar.com/files/upl0/6/61259/14_2008/3-28-lookeuc2.preview.jpg" width="274" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"></span></span>- <u>Move all your containers to a shady,
protected area. Place drip pans under each and water well</u>. Group together
those that need less water and place in the most protected spot; then
group the thirsty ones together and place them close to the others. Unless
a heat wave comes while you’re gone, they should all be fine. If you will
be away longer, then ask a trusted individual to come in and give any dry
pots a drink.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- <u>Double
potting smaller containers also helps insulate the soil during the hottest
weath</u>er. Place the container inside a larger one, then fill the space with
soil or fine mulch. (This is beneficial whether you're away or at home.)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- Adding
a layer of mulch to the surface of each pot helps cut down on evaporation.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-<u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d;">
Make your own self-waterer</span></u>:<i style="color: black;"><br /></i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">1.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span style="color: black;">Cut the bottom out of a plastic beverage container.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">2.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span style="color: black;">Remove lid and cover the opening with a small piece of
gauze, secured with a rubber band around the neck of the bottle. (This keeps
the soil from forming a plug in the opening.)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">3.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span style="color: black;">Push neck of bottle into the soil; do this near the
edge so the bottle can rest against the pot.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">4.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span style="color: black;">Fill the bottle with water the day before you leave;
then on the day you leave, top up with water again.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">- <u>Use water Delivery Devices or
Gels, or time-release water products</u>. </span></span>Several products are available
which utilize all-natural, biodegradable ingredients to keep soil moist. The
gel-form water gradually releases the moisture when it comes into contact with the
soil.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p> </o:p></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Source: </span></span><a href="http://forums2.gardenweb.com/">http://forums2.gardenweb.com</a>,
<a href="http://davesgarden.com/">http://davesgarden.com</a></span></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-71746193183034235742011-10-12T20:41:00.000-07:002011-10-12T21:27:21.288-07:00Tough Flood in Thailand and Cactus Farm<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Now, Thailand has the
worst flood in the decade. These floods started in June really and started to
move south and have really caused huge damage the whole way down.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“They've affected hundreds and hundreds of villages and
towns, they've wiped out 2.5 million acres of farmland. This is a very, very
serious disaster." <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;">said
Matthew Cochrane, spokesperson for the International Red Cross in Bangkok.</span></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Over half a million square kilometers -- an area the size of
Spain -- are affected by the floods in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos,
according to CNN meteorologist Jenny Harrison.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beyond many of houses, hospital, factories
and farmland affected by these huge water, the cactus & succulent farms nears
Bangkok were flooded already. Unfortunately,
the valuable cactus & succulent were gone with water without any help as
the flood came very quickly and strongly.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www4.pantown.com/data/25863/board5/1970-20111008161151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www4.pantown.com/data/25863/board5/1970-20111008161151.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www4.pantown.com/data/25863/board5/1970-20111008161957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www4.pantown.com/data/25863/board5/1970-20111008161957.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www4.pantown.com/data/25863/board5/1970-20111008162202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www4.pantown.com/data/25863/board5/1970-20111008162202.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www4.pantown.com/data/25863/board5/1970-20111008163635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www4.pantown.com/data/25863/board5/1970-20111008163635.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The water was higher than 2-3 meters on the next day. Here are the sample of some cactus farms. To every people affected by this disaster, <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">don't give up !</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you'd like to donate online<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> : </span><a href="http://english.redcross.or.th/home">http://english.redcross.or.th/home</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">credit: pictures from http://cactusstation.pantown.com/</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com0Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, Thailand14.330435 100.529611513.838134499999999 99.8978975 14.8227355 101.1613255tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-8680756146448238762011-09-21T22:09:00.000-07:002011-09-21T23:55:08.291-07:00Graptoveria Succulent<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> <span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black;">Genus:</span></b></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><b><span style="color: black;"> </span></b></span><span class="apple-style-span"><b><i><span style="color: black;">X Graptoveria</span></i></b></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">(grap-toh-VER-ree-uh) </span></span><span style="color: black;"><br />
<span class="apple-style-span"><b> <o:p></o:p></b></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The name Graptoveria is a combination of Echeveria and Graptopetalum. The 'x' before the name signifies this hybridization. Due to this mixed parentage they form a diverse genus, but most are low growing, cultivated for their beautiful shapes and colors.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.jennysplants.com.au/ebay/graptoveria/debbie2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://images.jennysplants.com.au/ebay/graptoveria/debbie2.jpg" width="308" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Graptoveria Debbie</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">X Graptoverias, are beautiful and easy to grow of all the Echeveria-like succulents in cultivation. Generally, they are hardier than Echeverias and certainly fast growing and easy to start from cuttings (leaf or stem) </span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The common species of </span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Graptoveria which can be found and sold normally are <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">- <i>Graptoveria Fred Ives</i></span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><i></i></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><i><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">- Graptoveria Debbie </span></i><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">(thick and pink purple leaves) </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><i><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">- Graptoveria Opalina</span></i><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">, a large, fat-leaved plant with pale colored leaves that vary in colors</span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">- <i>Graptoveria Silver Star. </i>You can get it the succulent nursery normally and it’s not simple to grow it because it can <span class="apple-style-span">rot easily and doesn't tolerate a lot of direct sunligh</span></span>t<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">- </span></span><b><i><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Graptoveria amethorum</span>,</i></b><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"> with </span></b><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">short, fat leaves </span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Sun Exposure:</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Caring for Graptoverias is similar to that of Echeveria and Graptopetalum. Bright light or shaded areas are best. Take care when placing outside as scarring can develop quickly even in partial sunlight. Most plants can be brought into the sun if done very gradually<span class="apple-style-span"><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Propagation Methods: <o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets) With leaf cuttings</span></span>, <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">you can cut a leaf and leave it on top of pot. Water it every 2-3 weeks and later the new plant will grow up.</span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Bloom Time: </span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Late Spring/Early Summer<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Watering:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVRFDc3O9yDMG3bCNYgv1O2JlU4K29k1wps5RiOq9wnfZrWJrZTsPQ2kLKiZ0-LDMbYkSGR-90M-aHjsiYE61QPSLj2cshSJeZfz2tXl3eX7o1Yu3FezVBdQOsdlb5g8Is5PnH5Po21w/s1600/echsslg20001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVRFDc3O9yDMG3bCNYgv1O2JlU4K29k1wps5RiOq9wnfZrWJrZTsPQ2kLKiZ0-LDMbYkSGR-90M-aHjsiYE61QPSLj2cshSJeZfz2tXl3eX7o1Yu3FezVBdQOsdlb5g8Is5PnH5Po21w/s320/echsslg20001.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><i>Graptoveria Silver Star</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Once a week for small port and twice for bigger pot. The <span style="color: black;">Graptoveria<span class="apple-style-span"> are drought-tolerant but like water when it's warm</span></span></span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Only for some types of Graptoveria (like Superbum, Hakuhou 3) you may use the watering can with small tip and pour water at the soil. That can avoid water being or holding on its leaves. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Or if there is water between the leaves, they will use syringe to suck water out of. Then Graptoveria will have perfect and healthy leaves. </span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Fertilizer:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Once a month. You can apply the orchid fertilizer with the succulent.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Pest:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">If you find the bit leaves, there should be a worm around there. You may use the pesticide when you find aphid on succulent. Meanwhile, you should collect and throw the dry or dead leaves as they will be place of pest and bad fungus.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Source: www. <a href="http://davesgarden.com/">http://davesgarden.com</a>, <a href="http://sites.google.com/site/succulentcity/home">http://sites.google.com/site/succulentcity/home</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-31593729461616454932011-08-26T09:25:00.000-07:002011-08-26T09:25:30.938-07:00Lithop & Silver Torch Cactus as one of 12 bizarre real plants that look like sci-fi alien monsters<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lithop.supanet.com/Page_3/IMAG008.GIF" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.lithop.supanet.com/Page_3/IMAG008.GIF" /></a></div>I've read the website about the weird plants that look like monsters. Lithop and Silver Torch Cactus are one of them even though I think Lithop is really a cute succulent (which is not easy to grow.) <br />
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In the article, you will find more plants which really look horrible and like monsters or alien.<br />
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Link : http://blastr.com/2011/08/12-bizarre-real-life-plan.php<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhypO6B2t62u_PFfjPSi88HuKVIMBJNH-NoH_gdUDmBOsW8CmD1NQvb6JvkUrB3YsbOnDWrMMzArTo_QEMR5F4gQnqwuJcyZJrNqRXR-JLREB1Dm5D99dKo-8G7Gw83oX8ACgynrbWF4/s1600/20-melon-mouth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhypO6B2t62u_PFfjPSi88HuKVIMBJNH-NoH_gdUDmBOsW8CmD1NQvb6JvkUrB3YsbOnDWrMMzArTo_QEMR5F4gQnqwuJcyZJrNqRXR-JLREB1Dm5D99dKo-8G7Gw83oX8ACgynrbWF4/s320/20-melon-mouth.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-82580697516351249932011-08-11T01:50:00.000-07:002011-08-11T02:12:43.560-07:00Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus - living rocks<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Scientific name: </span></b><b><i><span lang="DE" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus</span></i></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://mysteriesofnature.net/images/IMG_0720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="http://mysteriesofnature.net/images/IMG_0720.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Origin: </span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Mexico<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(Coahuila to Queretaro)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Habitat and Ecology: </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> Commonly called "living rocks," they are widely distributed as a large number of small, isolated populations, generally on limestone derived gypsum silt plains and on hills. The area where they grow must be quite wet during the rainy season (Summer). These plants are extremely hidden</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">as they blend in well with the terrain around them resembling dried mud. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">When they are found, it is usually due to their pinkish flowers. In times of severe drought the whole above-ground portion of these plants can shrink and be covered by mould, but the taproot remains alive.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Although they can form clumps, often only a small disc of tubercles can be seen flat at the soil surface, however these plants grow a large tap root below the surface of the compost.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Root:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> Each plant has a large turnip-like taproot, which lies below the soil surface and serves for water storage.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Cultivation:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> The plants need deep pots with loose mineral soil with a well-drained stuff. They need a good amount of light, a place near the roof of the greenhouse helps drying the pot after watering. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1qwqK2neXcJgolS9xO_M7gzJr4WG0JPdmpG_mAjy-S7x9wWpyA8ZiYxyGOTo0tQtKIHIvPuwtacvzwpU78yDPQhN6HNMk4lLqC_QsRd42L00E78Nyg7FxodTi4K2ixldBwedwuI-a0zI/s1600/2599988250098462493JcNyct_ph.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1qwqK2neXcJgolS9xO_M7gzJr4WG0JPdmpG_mAjy-S7x9wWpyA8ZiYxyGOTo0tQtKIHIvPuwtacvzwpU78yDPQhN6HNMk4lLqC_QsRd42L00E78Nyg7FxodTi4K2ixldBwedwuI-a0zI/s320/2599988250098462493JcNyct_ph.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Watering and adding fertilizer can be done weekly during summertime, if the weather is sunny enough. Kept this way, plants will show a healthy, although slow growth. They are frost hardy to -10°C. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Propagation: </span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">By seeds, remembering that seedlings dislike strong light and dry conditions. It will be great if the seeding pot can be repotted frequently. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Eventually, when they become mature, they attain a maximum size of 5 to 9 cm. But plants are often grafted to accelerate growth as they would generally slowly grow, but the grafted plants are typical rather tall growing or </span>become multi-heads plant<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">, compared with plants on their own roots that are usually very flat to the ground.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Flowers:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> </span><b><i><span lang="DE" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">A. kotschoubeyanus</span></i></b><span lang="DE" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">have a woolly crown, from which emerge bright pink-violet flowers up to 2.5-5 cm, 2 times wider than long when fully expanded. Flowers last for 3 to 4 days. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Blooming time:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> from mid-August onwards, and is easy to set seed on, it produces some interesting hybrids with other <i>Ariocarpus</i> species</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus </span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">is a variable species:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus forma mostruosa</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: black; text-decoration: none;">Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus forma prolifera</span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: black; text-decoration: none;">Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus var. albiflorus</span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: black; text-decoration: none;">Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus var. elephantidens</span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">(which are larger, highly textured, triangulate tubercles, and a deep purple flower with little or no white content)</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Ariocarpus kotschoueyanus var. macdowellii </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style="color: black;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="color: black; text-decoration: none;">Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus var. sladovski</span> </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">differs from the other red flowering <i>A. kotschoubeyanus</i> (for having a smoother and shiny epidermis)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> <i> </i></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Source: http://www.cactus-art.biz</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-32593374749169583272011-07-14T03:08:00.000-07:002011-07-14T03:12:17.837-07:00Care to Adenium – Desert Rose<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><br />
</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/dyckia1966/Kaset/Kaset_51_exposure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/dyckia1966/Kaset/Kaset_51_exposure.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;">A native of East Africa, the desert rose will grow from 6 ½ to 10 feet in the wild. It has fleshy leaves and beautiful 2-inch open-trumpet shaped flowers in shades from red to light pink. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;">Desert Rose is excellent in pots especially for people who "kill everything" because Adenium lives with little care and can take a good deal of neglect. Besides, the coolest Desert Rose plants are hybrids <span class="redtext">(many dozens of them)</span> produced in China, Taiwan and Thailand, and some in India. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Watering:</b> Needs little water during winter, especially when kept cool. Increase water during growing and blooming periods. If left without added water and no rain for a long time or after a cold night, your desert rose can lose most or all of its leaves. Never fear, they will re-grow after watering or after warm weather returns. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Soils:</b> Good drainage is essential in any soil mix, yet the soil mix also must have moisture retention properties, along with adequate nutrients. Use a mixture of half potting soil and half perlite, which will hold some moisture but still drain nicely. If you live in a warmer climate where you can plant outdoors, you can use gravel instead of Perlite. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span><b>Repotting:</b> Root prune and repot ever year or two, after the winter rest period, using a good draining soil mix such as described above. Peat can also be added to the mixture. Plant can tolerate being root-bound (tight in the pot.) </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Pruning: </b>Usually pruning is done to reduce overall plant size, or to selectively remove branches to 'sculpt' a more-perfect plant.<b> </b> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitGTwidHSY72XPDzHtYkq3gy5tTYLuNVTln2wuYPh_IXnS-ydD-whpZ2VfTHiyQRSC8uVFUAoiYLsKxSyM7cQvRfkYiK63Yog_0n4e_xKC_n1ysZm4oBG-MNRPZqizO1ZAlcjzkVOZWDc/s1600/IMG023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitGTwidHSY72XPDzHtYkq3gy5tTYLuNVTln2wuYPh_IXnS-ydD-whpZ2VfTHiyQRSC8uVFUAoiYLsKxSyM7cQvRfkYiK63Yog_0n4e_xKC_n1ysZm4oBG-MNRPZqizO1ZAlcjzkVOZWDc/s320/IMG023.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adenium flower</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: small;">Do heavy pruning around March to shape the plant. Any new shoots can be pruned off at any time if you don't want them. <u>Wear gloves and don't touch your face if you get any sap on you while pruning, as the sap is toxic.</u> Don't let children or animals play with or around these plants either. Wash sap off with soap immediately. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black;"> </span><b>Fertilizer:</b> Feed Adenium obesum with a general houseplant fertilizer half-strength about once or twice a month during the warm months. Blooming fertilizer may help encourage blooming during the growing season. Along with reducing watering to increase cold tolerance, fertilization should be ended in late August or early September. Availability of nutrients (especially nitrogen) encourages the plants to remain active and produce new growth.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Light:</b> Adenium needs lots of light and fresh air. Keep in a bright location in winter. In summer plant can be moved outside and can tolerate full sun but partial or filtered sun is fine. Plant will bloom better if getting more full sun and regular water.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Temperature:</b> Never below 40 degrees; however, in the winter, keeping it cool (between 40 and 61 degrees) gives the plant a needed rest. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Pest and Diseases:</b> The common enemies of Desert Rose are aphids, caterpillars, sometimes scale insects and fungus. Bugs are pretty easy to handle if you observe and inspect your Desert Rose often ...you'll see the pests and can take action. Sometimes, the leaves are eaten by small worm. If the trouble is not serious, just remove the worm out of the plant.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;">Source: <a href="http://www.spicewoodspines.com/">www.spicewoodspines.com</a>, <a href="http://mgonline.com/">http://mgonline.com</a>, <a href="http://www.ehow.com/">www.ehow.com</a>, www.tucsoncactus.org</span></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-90278304475559603662011-07-03T21:40:00.000-07:002011-07-03T21:46:18.773-07:00What to do when cactus is rotting???<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 18px;"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGc5Lrzhp5R1AaC5FQ1_o5TeBm_UmfpKtnrQJsBXlVj9k_eimyHcYumJpVGSr-H6WAcgmfQvzBeB8dOUGo8OI0ndPe8z17TIrb6TeSZTL9SyaOx9IgzKE7WnqyPReY_LMuFvC0Jwbb-M/s1600/P1015328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGc5Lrzhp5R1AaC5FQ1_o5TeBm_UmfpKtnrQJsBXlVj9k_eimyHcYumJpVGSr-H6WAcgmfQvzBeB8dOUGo8OI0ndPe8z17TIrb6TeSZTL9SyaOx9IgzKE7WnqyPReY_LMuFvC0Jwbb-M/s400/P1015328.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The before picture. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">when my mammillaria was still healthy in the big pot</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Thailand is in the rain season now and some cacti in my garden were also rotten. At this time, it happened with my favorite mammillaria which became rotten and I just noted it recently. So I think it’s important to fight with rotting seriously although before that, I led the plant rot without do anything. Here is the way to do that and hope it’ll be helpful when you have same trouble like me.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;"></div><ul><li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>How do we know or notice that the cactus is rotting?</b></span></span></li>
</ul><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px;">The brown base of can mean that the plant is aging (become woody) or rotting. To tell the difference, touch the base and see if it is hard or flabby/soft. Hard means everything is OK. But, it’s soft, it means that plant is rotting and it must be treated with care. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px;"> </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span></div><div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR3t5SA94o-HNWH68pSNTc1El6zJWVGfUn9Hw_D3ymFMd-MlrV1E6Fjz5AL3yKDQTK4lmZo8oDp-xBTZc8_blE1CRpfphaRlyRD6RVG04YnTs8dNUHoZP-navrqYtxzZ2XgSF8qENYRUQ/s1600/P1016580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR3t5SA94o-HNWH68pSNTc1El6zJWVGfUn9Hw_D3ymFMd-MlrV1E6Fjz5AL3yKDQTK4lmZo8oDp-xBTZc8_blE1CRpfphaRlyRD6RVG04YnTs8dNUHoZP-navrqYtxzZ2XgSF8qENYRUQ/s400/P1016580.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Here is after picture. It was so soft and I had to cut some rotten part out and dried the rest for 3-4 days together with the rotting aloe</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div><ul><li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Can I still save the rotting cactus? </b></span></span></li>
</ul><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px;">The second way to save a rotting cactus is to simply cut of its top.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px;">Using a sharp knife cut off the top of the plant.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px;">After that, let’s it dry for a 2-7 days. Once dry, set about 1/2 the plant into potting mix/perlite or cactus mix/perlite.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18px; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Do not water too much. Just enough to make the soil to become a little humid. Over watering at this point could cause rot again. With luck and the right conditions it will start to root. Once it develops its own roots, the watering can be increased. Establishing the new roots may take several days or weeks depending on the condition of plant and care.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigEXZoD7s2H5VjX_rUqXoyjB0y-pB0i9uFAho5T8Rj_seYe3SYVfhxt6eLuYDdGKwUCUTLXjxLX23KTkDtCaTEj84aUQVf_2kItwavGyw57hKvp390WHnRXqJt3O5eHp1SIiA018oE8pA/s1600/IMG016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigEXZoD7s2H5VjX_rUqXoyjB0y-pB0i9uFAho5T8Rj_seYe3SYVfhxt6eLuYDdGKwUCUTLXjxLX23KTkDtCaTEj84aUQVf_2kItwavGyw57hKvp390WHnRXqJt3O5eHp1SIiA018oE8pA/s400/IMG016.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I put them on top of pot with 100% perlite</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xN72blOR4zTMU4xyDPOCAtVmvnYsEuePdJ3ulLpLHVoKPo819M3tyAyt5EN7ZudEET3lQtj3QdCCn58oZOSfq2_5VF3A5FdKTMt1YS1Y-r9Cuf8C79VCVNNyNYtHEFK-xZxIFH_o8E4/s1600/IMG014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xN72blOR4zTMU4xyDPOCAtVmvnYsEuePdJ3ulLpLHVoKPo819M3tyAyt5EN7ZudEET3lQtj3QdCCn58oZOSfq2_5VF3A5FdKTMt1YS1Y-r9Cuf8C79VCVNNyNYtHEFK-xZxIFH_o8E4/s400/IMG014.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">After several days with humid from rain, the new root came out finally! </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Another option is to take a cutting or two for grafting which need skill & experience to do that.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div><div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18.0pt;"></div><ul><li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>What if my cactus is rotting from the top? What shall I do?</b></span></span></li>
</ul><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px;">If a cactus is rotting from the top you need to act immediately before more of the cactus rots. Just like as if it is rotting from the base, carefully cut off the top of the cactus that is rotting. Dispose of the cactus top.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">As for the bottom, clean it with a spray to make sure it does not catch the top's disease. Change the soil unless it looks as if the cactus can't take a repot. The remaining cactus should now be healthy. After a few weeks of extra care, start caring for it as for a normal cactus. It will not grow a new top or increase in height but it will grow branches which will grow.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Source: http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca, http://www.alexandgregory.com/<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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</div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-33211229952515318342011-06-26T21:17:00.000-07:002011-06-26T21:17:28.415-07:00Free seeds of Gymnocalycium cacti to get<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilouDRTfmTowKsaoAcgaF8dQW3JisTAkvsr_SGiCRCEEhpTmpPzHGt2FBS1X-3PXagf-OSKcCOnppbCZz6fPLvJnTbp0KXP0C2zn3qwNndEtfbRrjy08Lx843-OANYcB7BiQ5Olez4eNc/s1600/P1016376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilouDRTfmTowKsaoAcgaF8dQW3JisTAkvsr_SGiCRCEEhpTmpPzHGt2FBS1X-3PXagf-OSKcCOnppbCZz6fPLvJnTbp0KXP0C2zn3qwNndEtfbRrjy08Lx843-OANYcB7BiQ5Olez4eNc/s320/P1016376.JPG" width="318" /></a></div>Recently, my Gymnocalycium cacti flowered and gave me some seeds. I want to give them for free because they are too many for me and it'll be a good practice to grow normal cactus from seed. Then you'll know to do it with another cactus which may need more advance experience.<br />
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In the past, my friend ever gave the free seeds, then I learnt how to plant cactus from seed and now I want to do it to other people, too. Here is the picture of mother Gymnocalycium.<br />
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But you may need to pay $2 for shipping. (Please don't forget that I live in Thailand. If you stay here, I'll send you for free!) So if you'd like to get those seeds, please send money $2 via Paypal. Here is my account : thai_create@hotmail.com. There are limited amount: 3 sets (about 20-30 seeds/set)Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-67706300917508273192011-06-19T19:44:00.000-07:002011-06-24T02:35:13.128-07:00Cactus vs Scale<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 14px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 14px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">Today topic is about the scale, one of common pest for cactus as the blog reader has asked me about how to heal the cactus when scale attacks. Hope it'll be helpful for you guys.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Scale </span></b>is pinhead-size insects that present themselves as raised tan/brown spots. It is actually hard shell coverings that protect the insect or eggs underneath. Scales reproduce like rabbits, prefer columnar and rock cacti, and dine on plant juices. Infected plants appear yellow and weakened. Left untreated, scale can cause bud and shoot drop. Scale are treated similar to mealy bugs. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/lso/images/scales/ffa2-22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/lso/images/scales/ffa2-22.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">Life cycle <o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">Scale and mealy bugs are related insects, and since their life cycles closely parallel each other. In a general scale life cycle, eggs are produced beneath the female shell and hatch into tiny crawlers which are invisible to the unaided eye. Crawlers are not covered by a hard shell and they migrate to newly expanded foliage, finally settling near leaf veins on the underside of leaves or stems. It is this crawler stage, which is practically impossible to detect on cuttings or other propagation material that is responsible for spreading the infestation. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">Outbreaks of scale can be triggered by plants being under stress (overwatering/underwatering), too much new growth resulting from an overabundance of nutrients (overfertilizing), overcrowding (unavoidable in some collections) and other conditions specific to the infestation. These other conditions can include injudicious spraying that kills the predators but leaves the scale eggs alive, introduction of a new, more favorable host plant, etc. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ucanr.org/sites/ucmgnapa/files/26546display.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://ucanr.org/sites/ucmgnapa/files/26546display.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">scale on rose branch</td></tr>
</tbody></table><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">How to rid scale? <o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">Many remedies are available for control depending on how much the scale outbreak. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">1. At the beginning, you may choose organic controls including alcohol spray (isopropyl alcohol, straight or diluted), soapy emulsion (can be mixed w/alcohol), horticultural oil (read the directions, taking the plant out of the sun is a must) and pyrethrum spray. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">Soapy water/alcohol should be reapplied every 2-3 days for 2 weeks. This is because little residual action can be expected, and newly hatched insects are occurring.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">Alcohol in large quantities in the root zone is generally to be avoided since it can dehydrate some tissues. Soapy water/alcohol mix should not be allowed to dry in the root zone since damage can occur. If it is used, after a short period it can be flushed by pouring clean water through the root zone.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">2. The most common and easy choice to remove scale is Chemical spray with proven results include Sevin and malathion. DO NOT use sprays containing malathion on the Crassulaceae family of plants. These plants include the common Jade plants. Some species in these genera are very sensitive to Malathion, and damage or death may result. For your safe health, follow the pesticide instruction strictly when you use Malathion.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">3. Sometimes, spraying contact pesticides on scale is not effective since their protective hard shell coverings shed water like a well-made roof and the chemical ends up killing the natural predators (lacewings and their larvae that generally keep the scale under control in garden). </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">Systemic pesticides can work but we should get rid of the alive scales, too. They can't move, so once they are detached from the plant they will die. So you should scrape off the cactus scale by washing the plant with a weak detergent solution or by mechanically removing insects with a toothpick. Then spray Malathion to control major infestations weekly. When fighting scale, be sure to cover the soil, otherwise, these pests will just drop off and then get right back on the plant. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',sans-serif;">Information & Photo Source: http://www.cactusmuseum.com/, http://www.oldandsold.com, http://bugyou.blogspot.com/</span></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-38130314736391028662011-06-02T21:05:00.000-07:002011-06-06T21:55:55.329-07:00Haworthia koelmaniorum<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5298/5573857377_a13c8f2019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="124" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5298/5573857377_a13c8f2019.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Family: </span></b><b><span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Aloaceae </span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br />
<b>Genus: </b></span><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Haworthia</span></i></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Species: </span></b><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">koelmaniorum</span></i></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Synonym:</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> Haworthia koelmaniorum var. koelmaniorum, Haworthia limifolia var. koelmaniorum</span><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Origin: </span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">South Africa (Mpumalanga: Pretoria area)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Hardiness:</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br />
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)<br />
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)<br />
USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Sun Exposure:</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> Light Shade to shade <o:p></o:p></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">(Its leaves can be burn if the sunlight is too severe.)</span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Growth Habits: </span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Stemless rosette, very slowly clumping, 2 to 2.8 inches in diameter (5-7 cm); 14 to 20 leaves.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/3684169037_919ae3b8d2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/3684169037_919ae3b8d2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Watering Needs: </span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">regular water (every 3-4 days/time) </span><br />
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Bloom Color:</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> White/Near White</span><br />
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Bloom Time:</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> Mid-late Summer, Early Fall</span><br />
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Foliage:</span></b><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> Grown for foliage<br />
Evergreen<br />
Blue-Green<br />
Burgundy<br />
Succulent<br />
Leathery-Textured<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"></span>Propagation Methods:</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets) or leaf cuttings<br />
From seed; direct sow after last frost, From seed; germinate in vitro in gelatin, agar or other medium.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> </span><b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Other details:</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<div style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">This plant is suitable for growing indoors like normal harworthia. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Koelmaniorum grows slowly and can be rotten easily, too.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> The plant is not cheap so </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">its soil should be light and take care of it carefully. You may mix the cactus soil and pumice in small size with the ratio 1:2. I've been told that it worked.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Although Haworthia koelmaniorum naturally occurs in the summer rainfall area, the plants seem to have no problem when cultivated under similar conditions as their winter-growing relatives.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> Source: </span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.davesgarden.com/">www.davesgarden.com</a>, </span><a href="http://www.desert-tropicals.com/">www.desert-tropicals.com/</a><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">, </span><a href="http://desert-plants.blogspot.com/">http://desert-plants.blogspot.com</a><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-65708933808883316402011-05-18T09:57:00.000-07:002011-05-18T09:57:26.422-07:00Making your own compost at backyard<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>TH</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:ApplyBreakingRules/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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</style> <![endif]--> </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">What you do usually do with the dead leaves and food waste?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Composting is also a good answer to recycle leaves and other yard waste. Instead of burning or hauling away leaves, you can compost them and return the nutrients to your garden to save money with your own compost!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: #38761d; color: #f3f3f3; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span>What is compost?</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">To gardeners, compost is considered "black gold" because of its many benefits in the garden. Adding compost to clay soils makes them easier to work and plant. In sandy soils, the addition of compost improves the water holding capacity of the soil. By adding organic matter to the soil, compost can help improve plant growth and health.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: #38761d; color: #f3f3f3; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span>The composting process</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The composting process involves four main components: organic matter, moisture, oxygen, and bacteria. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Organic matter includes plant materials and some animal manures. All composting require three basic ingredients:</span></div><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;" type="disc"><li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Browns organic materials such as dead leaves, branches , twigs. The brown materials provide carbon for your compost</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Greens organic materials such as grass clippings, vegetable waste, fruit scraps, and coffee grounds. The green materials provide nitrogen.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Water provides moisture to help breakdown the organic matter</span></li>
</ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://gogreenstips.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Compost-Bin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://gogreenstips.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Compost-Bin.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The best ratio is 1 part green to 1 part brown material. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shredding, chopping or mowing these materials </span></div><ol start="1" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;" type="1"><li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Select a dry, shady spot near a water source for your compost pile or bin.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Add your brown and green materials as you collect them, making sure larger pieces are chopped or shredded. Smaller pieces will help speed the composting process by increasing the surface area.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Moisten dry materials as they are added.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Once your compost pile is established, mix green material into the pile and bury fruit and vegetable waste under 10 inches of compost material. </span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Optional: Cover top of compost with a tarp to keep it moist.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 36.0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">When the material at the bottom is dark and rich in color, your compost is ready to use (this is usually occurs in two months to two years).</span></li>
</ol><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><b><u><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Tip: </span></u></b></div><ul><li><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">If the pile is too dry, materials will decompose very slowly. Add water during dry periods or when adding large amounts of brown organic material.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 12pt;">If the pile is too wet, turn the pile and mix the materials. Another option is to add dry, brown organic materials.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Turning the pile is important for complete composting and for controlling odor. </span></li>
</ul><ul><li><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Wait at least two weeks before turning the pile, to allow the center of the pile to "heat up" and decompose. Once the pile has cooled in the center, decomposition of the materials has taken place. Frequent turning will help speed the composting process. </span></li>
</ul><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgx8GWMki8G6mxVB_ZJ0zhYpuBhrAPiCZegVJtlb-JE0YHaIjUhNOnQE8A9BE1s3EGfXJYdStDhQaX_84o02Hp_HxHloVIvlQylA11N7FfQYLpPOzZI5sjuI0lcCPbr82BEBT7q4Y7rzk/s1600/P1015872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgx8GWMki8G6mxVB_ZJ0zhYpuBhrAPiCZegVJtlb-JE0YHaIjUhNOnQE8A9BE1s3EGfXJYdStDhQaX_84o02Hp_HxHloVIvlQylA11N7FfQYLpPOzZI5sjuI0lcCPbr82BEBT7q4Y7rzk/s320/P1015872.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my compost bag</td></tr>
</tbody></table><ul><li><span style="font-size: 12pt;">You may also add layers of soil or finished compost to supply more bacteria and speed the composting process. Commercial starters are available but should not be necessary for compost.</span></li>
</ul><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><i><span style="font-size: 12pt;">(I live in the city and have limited garden space.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Therefore, I make my own compost in the soil/cement large bag (which water can go through) and shake it every 2 weeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>About 2-3 months, the compost will be ready </span></i><i><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></span></i><i><span style="font-size: 12pt;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can adapt another bag or sack to make the compost.)</span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: #38761d; color: #f3f3f3; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span>How long does it take?</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The amount of time needed to produce compost depends on several factors, including the size of the compost pile, the types of materials, the surface area of the materials, and the number of times the pile is turned.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The number of times the pile is turned influences composting speed. By turning more frequently (about every 2-4 weeks), you will produce compost more quickly. Waiting at least two weeks allows the center of the pile to heat up and promotes maximum bacterial activity. The average composter turns the pile every 4-5 weeks.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">With frequent turning, compost can be ready in about 3 months, depending on the time of year. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">In winter, the activity of the bacteria slows, and it is recommended that you stop turning the pile after November to keep heat from escaping the pileís center. In summer, warm temperatures encourage bacterial activity and the composting process is quicker</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><u><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Tips:</span></u></div><ul><li><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">If the pile has more brown organic materials, it may take longer to compost. You can speed up the process by adding more green materials or a fertilizer with nitrogen (use one cup per 25 square feet).</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span></li>
</ul><ul><li><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">When turning the compost pile, make sure that materials in the center are brought to the outsides, and that materials from the outside edges are brought to the center. </span></li>
</ul><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: #38761d; color: #f3f3f3; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Using compost in the yard</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Incorporate compost into your garden as you prepare the soil in the spring. Cover the area with 3-4 inches of soil and till it in to at least the upper 6 inches of soil. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Or you also use compost as mulch around flower beds, vegetable gardens, or around trees or shrubs in landscape beds. Apply a 3 inch layer. Be careful not to apply mulch close to the main stem or trunk of the plant.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Source: http://urbanext.illinois.edu, http://www.epa.gov/</div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-59058500027080198792011-05-05T20:59:00.000-07:002011-05-05T20:59:00.127-07:00Notocactus/ Parodia Cacti<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Notocactus/ Parodia Cacti<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Most of favorite cactus have the origin in Africa, middle USA and Mexico but today, I’d like to introduce the cactus from South Africa: Parodia magnifica<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.bakersfieldcactus.org/floribunda/070511/notocactus%20magnificus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.bakersfieldcactus.org/floribunda/070511/notocactus%20magnificus.jpg" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Like other cacti, species of Parodia magnifica have developed means of reducing water loss. They have a thick waterproof cuticle that keeps water in and tries to keep pests and diseases out. Cacti have also recessed their stomata in deep pits over their bodies.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Scientific name:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Parodia magnifica <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Synonyms:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> Eriocactus magnificus, Notocactus magnificus<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Origin:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay, Argentina<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Habitat: </span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The habitat where this plant come from can become very cold during the winter nights, often it will fall to just above freezing without harming the plants as it is also very dry.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Soil:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> Parodia/ Notocactus are found mostly on "islands" of low rocky hills found in grasslands and forests, growing between cracks in the rocks or in the shade of larger growing plants. The soil there is well drained and has a fairly high organic content, derived from the decomposition of other plants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">So the proper soil for Parodia/Notocactus should be well-drained and have high organic content.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Temperature: </span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The habitat where Parodia/Notocactus come from can become very cold during the winter nights; often it will fall to just above freezing without harming the plants as it is also very dry. When growing at home it is best to avoid any frost as you may loose the plant but during the winter the temperature can be as low as 2C without any harm so long as the compost is very dry.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://www.kaktuszgyujtok.hu/vzoli/fuveszkert/Notocactus%20magnificus1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://www.kaktuszgyujtok.hu/vzoli/fuveszkert/Notocactus%20magnificus1.jpg" width="320" /></a><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Watering:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> The plants in the cold country should be kept almost completely dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine. From March onwards the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">But I am in Thailand, warm location; I also water my cacti every 2-4 days upon the sun exposure and season.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Lighting:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> Grow most species of Notocactus in full sun during the summer and winter avoiding only the harshest summer sun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">During the summer it is best to keep the plants outside. Keeping the plants in full sun will make them look healthier and will result in stronger and more colorful spination. If kept too dark they may become overly lush and could be prone to rotting due to over watering, they will also be shy to produce flowers.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">As the sunshine here (Thailand) is severe, especially in summer, my greenhouse also has the shading net to reduce the sunlight and protect the plants to be burn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-39647922204656354942011-04-18T02:56:00.000-07:002011-04-18T02:56:24.079-07:00Natural ways to get rid of ants<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>TH</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:ApplyBreakingRules/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--> <m:smallfrac m:val="off"> <m:dispdef> <m:lmargin m:val="0"> <m:rmargin m:val="0"> <m:defjc m:val="centerGroup"> <m:wrapindent m:val="1440"> <m:intlim m:val="subSup"> <m:narylim m:val="undOvr"> </m:narylim></m:intlim> </m:wrapindent><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Ants, a small animal, prove to be beneficial to the gardener by feeding on destructive garden pests such as caterpillars, spiders and small insects. But, some species of ants like black garden ants live together with the aphids (for their honeydew). In such a case, ants are inviting a notorious pest in the garden.<span> </span>Here are several natural ways to get rid of the insects in your garden.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMNJQoejWgNSvCNfSH4H4BXfvf0IjLTdRxHY6HufPXkRG1KJauT9u0yc6zrLVxbL5zq5UdsxjXbbNSLAXTsSeOEdZ77Qc4_6L-K9uzm-xnQGP42epBf0oYMysHcOSzgFPdQJdyiI4hCg/s1600/yard+ants2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMNJQoejWgNSvCNfSH4H4BXfvf0IjLTdRxHY6HufPXkRG1KJauT9u0yc6zrLVxbL5zq5UdsxjXbbNSLAXTsSeOEdZ77Qc4_6L-K9uzm-xnQGP42epBf0oYMysHcOSzgFPdQJdyiI4hCg/s1600/yard+ants2.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span></span><span></span><b>1. Try a vinegar spray. </b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Mix three parts vinegar with one part warm water, and spray around the perimeter of the garden. If you know where the ant hill is, you can spray the mound directly.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span> </span><b>2. Sprinkle freshly ground black pepper in your garden around your plants. </b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Ants won't cross it, and it doesn’t cause any harm to you plants.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span> </span><b>3. Ants hate any type of strong odor. </b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">The pungent aromatic scent of mint leaves acts a natural pesticide for the ants. So, do not delay in planting mint in your garden so as to get rid of the troublesome ants. The permanent solution for garden ants is to grow and maintain mint plants throughout the year. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span> </span><b>4. Shake out a line of baby powder around the garden. </b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">For some reason, ants don't seem to like the smell, and won't go near any part of the garden that has a baby powder smell.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span></span><span> </span>5. Find the ant hill, and pour corn meal on top of it. </b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Ants will eat the corn meal, but they can't digest it, so they will die. If you hate the idea of killing ants, put a jar of honey in a tree near your garden. The ants will relocate so they can be near the honey, and it will keep them.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRLReGLmaigooBTkpLitwY7gHnW1Rjd042rgRF58F2d6oZALN9AYqYfQZ36PEybIm6xdLUFVBB5g70OpQOqfUHHPLnOltKcaB5QwPnASsxxUxwCEcmIbodmmSmFWuuX4HWSn7x5gOeidA/s1600/yard+ants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRLReGLmaigooBTkpLitwY7gHnW1Rjd042rgRF58F2d6oZALN9AYqYfQZ36PEybIm6xdLUFVBB5g70OpQOqfUHHPLnOltKcaB5QwPnASsxxUxwCEcmIbodmmSmFWuuX4HWSn7x5gOeidA/s320/yard+ants.jpg" width="320" /></a><span></span><b>6. </b><b>Use Citrus Peelings<span> </span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Collect citrus peelings (orange, lemon, etc.) and ground them by using adequate amount of water. Remove the liquid concoction and spray it over the ant mound. This method is an effective natural remedy for getting rid of carpenter ants and other garden ants.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><span style="color: blue;">I don’t recommend the ways with boil water and boric acid because the boil water is too cruel to ants</span>.<span> </span></b>Imagine how you would feel if your body was burn by hot water. <span> </span>Meanwhile, boric acid is chemical, I also am unsure about its side affect to the soil, plant even or my health.<span> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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</div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-63076215297711764852011-04-15T02:37:00.000-07:002011-04-15T02:42:55.655-07:00Another harmful part of cactus<div class="MsoNormal">I got the interesting question about the poisonous cactus. After asking my friends who are the cacti great collector and searching the information., I found that beyond the sharp thorn, other harmful main part of cactus is sticky milk sap but not all cacti have the toxic sap. Just only some of them have such sap. Here is the list of cactus which has the harmful latex:<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfJ90Cnr9NJp39izg-0G3JSr8NeNxonu72HU6MTYFiZd6ahtglsKLQdi1em5BxGd4XdMCrD-yy3i5ZbwGi-Y4sQEh8wEDlHCkO0GFFgjFcAQV9eO3GC6wusp48SQVubwg8s5fnnDbOb376/s1600/390651_Adenium_obesum_White_new.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfJ90Cnr9NJp39izg-0G3JSr8NeNxonu72HU6MTYFiZd6ahtglsKLQdi1em5BxGd4XdMCrD-yy3i5ZbwGi-Y4sQEh8wEDlHCkO0GFFgjFcAQV9eO3GC6wusp48SQVubwg8s5fnnDbOb376/s320/390651_Adenium_obesum_White_new.jpg" width="298" /></a></div><b>The desert rose (Adenium obesum)</b> is a member of the dogbane family. Like many of its relatives, the desert rose can exude a milky acrid sap when the stems or leaves are broken. This sap has cardioactive ingredients that can be dangerous if taken internally. Ingestion can cause abdominal pain and vomiting. <br />
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Some of the<b> euphorbias or spurge species </b>yield a milky latex. This can cause dermatitis in susceptible individuals. Avoid getting this in your eyes or bare skin, particularly if you have open sores or wounds. All parts of the euphorbias could be potentially poisonous if consumed. If swallowed, this can cause lesions of the mouth. Ingestion of the juice can also act as a purgative. In addition, gastrointestinal symptoms can occur. <br />
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<b>Pachypodium </b>is another member of the dogbane family. These often have a caudex. Bearing resemblance to a columnar cactus, this has thorns up and down the length of the stems. These thorns are modified stipules. They can be injurious, so be careful. Like the other dogbane relatives, this plant yields a poisonous sap. <br />
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<b>Agaves, including the century plant and maguey</b>, contains an irritating latex or sap. This can cause dermatitis in susceptible individuals. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.hear.org/starr/images/images/plants/full/starr-030702-0049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.hear.org/starr/images/images/plants/full/starr-030702-0049.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Crassula argentea</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><b>Christmas candle</b> is also known as candelilla. This is a species of pedilanthus. It is related to the euphorbias or spurges. All parts of the plant have a toxic white sap. Avoid getting this on your skin. It can cause severe dermatitis in susceptible individuals. If taken internally, it can bring on various gastrointestinal symptoms. These include diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal cramping, and nausea. <br />
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The <b>baby jade (Crassula argentea)</b> also has a burning, irritating sap. This comes from the leaves and all other parts of the plant. This latex can cause dermatitis. <br />
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Meanwhile, many of the Opuntia cacti have glochids (small hair-like spines) that can hurt someone who is unaware. It can make skin irritation. (And really it’s difficult to get rid of the small spine from the skin. I had every that experience before.) The bunny-ear Opuntia is particularly deceptive because it looks so cute and touchable. But the spine of some Mammillaria is OK. Its spine is so soft like the teddy bear (Personally, I like to touch it when I feel upset.) </div><div class="MsoNormal"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGc5Lrzhp5R1AaC5FQ1_o5TeBm_UmfpKtnrQJsBXlVj9k_eimyHcYumJpVGSr-H6WAcgmfQvzBeB8dOUGo8OI0ndPe8z17TIrb6TeSZTL9SyaOx9IgzKE7WnqyPReY_LMuFvC0Jwbb-M/s1600/P1015328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGc5Lrzhp5R1AaC5FQ1_o5TeBm_UmfpKtnrQJsBXlVj9k_eimyHcYumJpVGSr-H6WAcgmfQvzBeB8dOUGo8OI0ndPe8z17TIrb6TeSZTL9SyaOx9IgzKE7WnqyPReY_LMuFvC0Jwbb-M/s320/P1015328.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my favorite mammillaria</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">So when working with these plants, especially if your hands have wound, <u>protect them and arms with heavy, long sleeved clothing and gardening gloves.</u> If you are injured, seek medical attention. Watch the injured spot carefully for signs of infection.</div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-51392461687886454132011-03-31T21:38:00.000-07:002011-03-31T21:46:05.460-07:00Cactus vs Fungus<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Here are the fungus found normally in cactus.</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br />
</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8Bw7r79OzvPhvckW22EWulzqD8yr_n0sXQDqF2imIyYs2nFBph2DWicRpkhl2FywBP9ICy5X51Xac9MnkTQ4QdePLT-nm6s7W3G0QBfow3p8PRhyphenhyphenGDmaz2QMK2y7dJCImY3-xA8qn7o/s1600/P1015435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8Bw7r79OzvPhvckW22EWulzqD8yr_n0sXQDqF2imIyYs2nFBph2DWicRpkhl2FywBP9ICy5X51Xac9MnkTQ4QdePLT-nm6s7W3G0QBfow3p8PRhyphenhyphenGDmaz2QMK2y7dJCImY3-xA8qn7o/s320/P1015435.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">1. Cactus Anthracnose </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">(fungus – <i>Colletotrichum </i>(<i>Gleosproium</i>) <i>spp</i>): This disease affects several kinds of cacti, cereus, echinocactus, mammillaria, and particularly, opuntia (prickly pear). Infection results in a rather moist light brown rot that shows many light pink pustules on the surface. Spots are small at first, later enlarge, and become covered by the small spore-producing pustules. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Large areas may be affected, sometimes destroying entire plants. No satisfactory control is available, other than removing and destroying diseased cladodes as soon as noticed. In the greenhouse, soil from infected plants should be removed and benches disinfected. Spraying with a copper fungicide may help in checking this disease.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">2. Scorch or Sunscald </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">(fungus <i>– Henersonia opuntiae</i>): This disease is common and<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">serious on prickly pear cactus (opuntia). Spots at first are distinctly zoned, later enlarging until entire cladodes turn a reddish-brown and finally die. The center of the disease area is grayish-brown and cracked. Other fungi may be present in the diseased area. No practical control has been developed.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">3. Cotton Root Rot </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">(fungus – <i>Phymatotrichum omnivorum</i>): Several members of the<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PU_hRkwetRMktUHpc4TOpmlRdUJPNWcswLHxUBNPLwPfyHQV92skgNptFuzhn_oaTiViDUZZF1EsAYohusn7faUjG4h4clJIMdSRRCDqMEqpmRiyPP1oWlgDc_u8bny8hnFNrnSJjak/s1600/P1015438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PU_hRkwetRMktUHpc4TOpmlRdUJPNWcswLHxUBNPLwPfyHQV92skgNptFuzhn_oaTiViDUZZF1EsAYohusn7faUjG4h4clJIMdSRRCDqMEqpmRiyPP1oWlgDc_u8bny8hnFNrnSJjak/s320/P1015438.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">cactus family are susceptible to attack by the cotton root rot fungus. Infected plants die. When pulled from the soil the brown strands of the fungus can be found growing on the root surface. No control practice is available.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">4. Scab </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">(physiological): Particularly common on prickly pear cactus. Rusty colored, corky areas appear on the stems. Scab is thought to be a form of edema, resulting from over watering and poor ventilation. Increase light and decrease humidity for control.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><b>What to do when cactus are infected?</b><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-add-space: auto; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-autospace: none; text-indent: -18.0pt;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><ul><li><span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Quarantine and remove infected plant material. </span></li>
<li><span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Repot and cut off the infected area if it’s not severe and it’s possible to cut. Cut behind the infection so that you can throw the fungus away entirely. If it’s severe, destroy affected plants and their pots.</span></li>
<li><span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Set the environment of your greenhouse or garden to be more appropriate for the cactus. The causes of fungus are sometimes poor ventilation, light or humidity.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"></span><span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Dust the both infected and healthy plant with Bordeaux mixture or another fungicide. </span></li>
</ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://0.tqn.com/w/experts/Cactus-710/2010/08/peeled-growth-cactus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://0.tqn.com/w/experts/Cactus-710/2010/08/peeled-growth-cactus.jpg" width="282" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><b>Preventing the fungus </b></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">1. Back the basic, pay attention and take care of your plants closely. Mostly, the infection can invade your garden when you don’t have time to check or care the cactus. (This case ever happened with me, too)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">2. Get rid of the fungus/infection as soon as you find it. The earlier to figure the fungus, the easier to control it.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">3. Giving more time to spray the </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">fungicide (every one or two weeks)</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">, repot and fertilize the plants.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><u>Every plant is same; cactus, succulent, orchid, rose or else. If you take care of it well, it will grow up greatly and make you proud</u>. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">If you have any comment or question, please feel free to contact me :)</span></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-4051099201304285792011-03-14T20:38:00.000-07:002011-03-14T20:38:06.240-07:00When is the time to repot the cactus???<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Normally, we should repot the cactus at least once a year but if you want the cactus to grow faster, you may change its pot every 5-7 months upon the size and age of the plant.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">However, somebody who is very lazy (like me) may repot when it’s really necessary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When is it???<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can notice the good time to change the cactus pot when</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtEDOuXhF8vGaxCDxCkqDbudid36FxULKtPbgQH8lpNScgeh5WnPAgRGHflQgn2hvpODncvykg3WJ3DtvfXLgYeJrlCIbCU_mBt8HXH-T9Y_adLz-k6avoYdH9FrQbDQnOrl_ajmapiBA/s1600/P1015330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtEDOuXhF8vGaxCDxCkqDbudid36FxULKtPbgQH8lpNScgeh5WnPAgRGHflQgn2hvpODncvykg3WJ3DtvfXLgYeJrlCIbCU_mBt8HXH-T9Y_adLz-k6avoYdH9FrQbDQnOrl_ajmapiBA/s320/P1015330.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hard top soil</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<ul><li><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Cactus size is too big for the pot </li>
<li>Cactus is growing slowly</li>
<li><span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>The top soil is so hard </li>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qwXlu9PzGGyBbtKSMq-3Tj4OUae-camUtXA8f9vu0oIeRFkReyjuipwzS2gViN4E2CEi4QGOOqSPIhYgQroMxnd79Ayi6e_3azhPO8qALBpJbykwKkL8Vq-X89bfBoHvfRVTFcNZz7A/s1600/P1015322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qwXlu9PzGGyBbtKSMq-3Tj4OUae-camUtXA8f9vu0oIeRFkReyjuipwzS2gViN4E2CEi4QGOOqSPIhYgQroMxnd79Ayi6e_3azhPO8qALBpJbykwKkL8Vq-X89bfBoHvfRVTFcNZz7A/s320/P1015322.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Root on top soil</td></tr>
</tbody></table><li>Cactus root’s is on the surface of the pot because there is no more food/fertilizers at bottom of pot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Sometimes, it’s true but I have an experience: one of my cacti grown on the surface.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At that time, I changed its pot and its root was still on the surface again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I re-potted again and its root was still on the top of the pot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I asked my cactus advisor and she said that’s the habit of that cactus.)</li>
</ul><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiroDCnqdPYK4y0CuzZmIQg22lkbKRa6aF2nI0Am9ex8f5UVREiJu51t3c5GbLc9cyUS5W__nQ1KNKlfZ-VFUYxEgpgvqqTRW56Mkw-sflRPk99pKdfn6TSIjXOUfCHl1txAFDXBdGDD5Y/s1600/P1015334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiroDCnqdPYK4y0CuzZmIQg22lkbKRa6aF2nI0Am9ex8f5UVREiJu51t3c5GbLc9cyUS5W__nQ1KNKlfZ-VFUYxEgpgvqqTRW56Mkw-sflRPk99pKdfn6TSIjXOUfCHl1txAFDXBdGDD5Y/s320/P1015334.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">my Pachypodium</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">However, you should know about the dormant period of each cactus & succulent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For example, my Pachypodium always leave its leaves and stop growing since October. It will have new leaves and grow up again at the beginning of rain season (about May).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I repot it before May. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dormant plants are weak and can't really defend themselves against infection.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Meanwhile, any damage done to the roots during repotting will be dangerous to the plants.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Right Season to do it</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Normally, I’d recommend before or at the beginning of the rain season because it’s not too dry or too wet. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the new pot can support the plant growth in the rainy but you should be careful about the infection and being rotten if you repot during the rain season. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So please change the pot before the rain comes.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">However, <u>that’s the general suggestion. You should understand your plants well.</u><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are some species that can tolerate every thing you’ve done with them, but others could not truly tolerate any stress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So please pay attention and time to observe your cactus.</div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-34862343404732763032011-02-21T20:48:00.000-08:002011-02-21T20:59:06.093-08:00Mammillaria herrerae Care<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 3;"><a href="http://albino.sub.jp/db/n047/mammillaria_herrerae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://albino.sub.jp/db/n047/mammillaria_herrerae.jpg" width="320" /></a><b><u><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Scientific name</span></u></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">: <i> Mammillaria herrerae</i> </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div><b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Origin</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">: Queretaro, Mexico</span><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Habitat: </span></b><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> It g</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">rows mainly in open places between grasses and calcareous rocks</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> in association with other cactus species like Echinocactus grusonii, Ferocactus hystrix and Thelocactus leucanthus. </span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Description:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> It is small growing cactus that look like a little golf ball. </span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">It usually stay</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">s</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> solitary</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> or occasionally clusters from the base.<br />
<b>Stems: </b>Globose or slightly elongated as it ages, 2 - 3.5 cm in diameter and height. (In cultivation it can grow very slowly up to 8 cm tall)</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> Without latex.<br />
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<b> Flower:</b> Diurnal, quite large for a Mammillaria, pale pink to red-violet, 20 - 25 mm long and very showy. <br />
<b>Blooming season (Europe):</b> April to May, it starts flowering when it gets to be 5-7 years old, and reaches at least 3 cm in diameter.<b><br />
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<b>Lighting: </b></span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB">Requires</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">maximum sun exposure</span><span lang="EN-GB"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">to reach its full potential</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">,</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> and to achieve success in flowering </span><br />
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<b><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Cultivation:</span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> This plant </span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">isn't famou</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">s</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> for</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> be</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">ing</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> easy to cultivate, but in good conditions with excellent ventilation, it grows without difficulty. </span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">It is especially sensitive to overwatering. So careful watering and an open</span> <span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">mineral </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">potting soil</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">are a must.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">A</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">void the use of peat or other </span><a href="http://www.cactus-art.biz/note-book/Dictionary/Dictionary_H/dictionary_humus.htm"></a><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">humus sources in the potting mixture. </span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/RosemarieRo/TGF/IMG_2600Mammillariaherreraeava.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/RosemarieRo/TGF/IMG_2600Mammillariaherreraeava.jpg" /></a><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Don't add limestone to the potting mix </span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">(</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">which must be moderately acidic</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">)</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> It can be sensitive to frost (but if dry they are resistant to -5° C). </span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">A winter rest that allows the plant to shrivel (perhaps losing up to 25% of its summer height) will encourage flowering and long time survival. </span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Be careful to encourage slow growth.</span><br />
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</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Propagation:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> Direct sow after last frost. (it usually doesn't produces offsets).</span><br />
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</div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-83841561511006729972011-02-08T02:00:00.000-08:002011-02-08T02:01:28.489-08:00Make a self-watering containerHave you ever got a problem who would water plants when you're away or had a holiday? Here, I've the video showing how to make a self-watering container simply.<br />
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<object classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" height="326" id="videojugplayer" width="570"><param name="movie" value="http://www.videojug.com/player?id=618e912a-8486-18d1-eb75-ff0008c9ad7b"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.videojug.com/player?id=618e912a-8486-18d1-eb75-ff0008c9ad7b" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="570" height="326" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always"></embed></object><br />
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source: VideojugSoccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8707377445689765845.post-11992796936522371712011-01-24T19:56:00.000-08:002011-03-14T20:03:13.792-07:00Haworthia fasciata<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Plant Family: </b>Liliaceae</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.fpparquesyjardines.com.ar/imagenes/big/Haworthia_fasciata.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.fpparquesyjardines.com.ar/imagenes/big/Haworthia_fasciata.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>Plant Botanical Name : </b><i>Haworthia</i> <i>fasciata</i> </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Common Name</b>: Zebra haworthia</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>General Description<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Comprising about 70 species of small, succulent, cold-tender perennials, this southern African genus contains many excellent subjects for containers or frost-free gardens. Most cultivated haworthias come from desert or semi-desert regions of South Africa that receive little or no summer rainfall. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Most <i>Haworthia</i> species form ground-hugging or short-stemmed rosettes of fleshy, somewhat triangular, firm- or soft-textured leaves. The leaves of several species (including <i>H</i>. <i>cymbiformis</i>) have a mosaic of translucent "windows" at their tips, which admit light to an interior layer of photosynthesizing cells. Warty silver-gray tubercules mark the leaves of some species (such as <i>H</i>. <i>attenuata</i>), giving them an almost reptilian appearance. Still others (<i>H</i>. <i>arachnoidea</i>, for example) produce spherical rosettes covered with a cobweb of fine white bristles. Among the most striking and sought-after haworthias are <i>H</i>. <i>truncata</i> and its allies, whose "sawed-off" leaves resemble miniature stone columns. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Many haworthias multiply rapidly into sizable clumps when grown in optimal conditions. Most have fleshy roots, but a few are tuberous-rooted. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Haworthias are not showy bloomers, producing small, pale, tubular flowers on tall, thin, wiry stems. Blooming season differs among species. Plants sometimes set seed, which if sown may result in hybrid seedlings. Many formerly supposed species of <i>Haworthia</i> are now known to be hybrids. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">These succulents do best in porous soil and bright filtered light. Water sparingly in summer and winter, and more frequently in spring and fall. Haworthias take very well to container culture and are splendid in decorative pots. Drought and sun may cause reddening of the leaves. Plants are easily propagated by separation of rosettes.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b><u>Characteristics</u><o:p></o:p></b></div><ul style="margin-top: 0cm;" type="disc"><li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>AHS Heat Zone: </b>12 - 10</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>USDA Hardiness Zone: </b>10 - 15</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Sunset Zone: </b>12, 13, 21, 22, 23, 24</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Plant Type: </b> Succulent</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Sun Exposure: </b>Full Sun, Partial Sun</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Height: </b>1"-4" / 2.5cm - 10.2cm</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bloom Time: </b>Early Spring, Spring, Late Spring, Early Summer, Summer, Late Summer, Early Fall, Fall</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Native To: </b>Southern Africa</li>
</ul><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lapshin.org/succulent/new-album/thumbs/Haworthia-fasciata-BigBand2-Lapshin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.lapshin.org/succulent/new-album/thumbs/Haworthia-fasciata-BigBand2-Lapshin.jpg" /></a></div><b><u>Growing Conditions</u><o:p></o:p></b></div><ul style="margin-top: 0cm;" type="disc"><li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Soil type: </b>Loam, Sand</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Tolerances: </b>Drought</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><b>Water Requirements:<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></b><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #292929; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 115%;">Keep the soil barely moist and if you use rainwater, be careful as it could be acidic. Use warm water.</span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Fertilizer:</b> <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #292929; line-height: 115%;">Feed only twice a year, once in April and once in July with a water soluble fertilizer.</span></span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
</ul><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Tip &Advice:</b> <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #292929; line-height: 115%;">Be careful not to over-water. Put a layer of small gravel at the bottom of the pot and also one inch on the top of the soil to prevent stem rot. Repot this plant in the spring and use a shallow pot.</span></span></span></div>Soccerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17006347626167310161noreply@blogger.com4